Sunday, July 2, 2017

A Rude Awakening, Surface Area, and Reunion II

Day: 1 Oslo, Norway to Tønsberg, Norway

Average Speed: 15.3 km/h (<10 MPH... pretty damn slow. I blame Google)

Miles Cycled Today: 88.3 km (55 Miles)

Miles Cycled Total: About 103 km (64 Miles)

Mood: Surprisingly Confident, until I realized Kilometers aren't Mile


Biking Bear at Pride Festival

I'm not a morning person. But I always dreamt of becoming one. So night after night, I set my alarm super early with the hopes that I will suddenly morph into the beautiful butterfly that I associate with morning people. I'm in total denial. 

Problem is, my alarm is excruciatingly loud. And super unpleasant. It's very Duck-and-Cover-esque. Or perhaps even Duck-and-Shit-Yourself-esque. One of those. 

The only person unaffected by its awfulness is me. When I'm in DreamLand, I'll be damned if I can't find a way to turn that air-raid alert into a seductive siren song and lure myself back to sleep. 

However, when you're in a hostel bunking in a room with five other strangers, it's wrong to assume they share that same skill. 

After the first night, I joked about it. 

Me: "Hey- Did you guys hear my alarm going of at 7 AM this morning?"

Cot #1: "Yes."

Cot #2: "Yes. And 7:15. And 7:30."

Me: "Sorry 'bout that! Just wanted to get an early start to the day is all!"

Cot #3: "You're the only one who didn't get an early start to the day."

Me: "...at least I don't snore!"

Cot #1: "Yes. Yes you do."

Cot #5: "And fart."

This is much funnier if you can hear the variety of accents and watch them try to find the English words to politely express their collective disdain.

So when an alarm went off at 7:30 AM this morning, they all stared at me. Girl on Cot #3 threw a pillow. I raised my phone up high, both triumphantly and groggily explaining that it wasn't mine. After some confusion, we eventually realized it was an actual fire alarm. My five bunkmates dutifully left the room. I rolled over and shut my eyes. 
Someone Didn't Read This Sign. Wasn't Me. I was Asleep.





The Argentinian guy in Cot #5 forced me out of bed and made me march down the stairs in my undies with the rest of them. 

When we were sent back to our rooms after a false alarm was called, I gave him the hairy eyeball, which said "See? I knew it was a false alarm!" before we all collapsed back into our respective bunks. 


My alarm went off fifteen minutes later. 











As a teacher, I am totally desensitized to fire alarms. The number of times we practice walking out of a building in a single year borders on absurd. And we're always supposed to walk in an orderly fashion without talking at all. Is that how we'd realistically react to a building ablaze? I say we practice screaming and shoving each other out of the way. That makes more sense.

So teachers are generally annoyed by fire alarms- not thankful for them. 

Have you ever been in a public shopping center when the fire alarm goes off? Who rushes to the exit? No one. 

Understandably, other cultures might not understand a lack of reaction to a potentially life-saving alarm. 

Anyway, I did get up early (more to prove that my alarm was, in fact, necessary), and got a solid start to the day. 
Today's Route

OSLO, NORWAY to TØNSBERG, NORWAY:

According to Google Maps, there were two ways I could've gone to Tønsberg. One way included a ferry and seemed to hug the shoreline, the other way stayed more inland. 

I opted for the former. Sounded more scenic. 


Today's Elevation Profile








But you'd be surprised how intricate Google gets when it provides a bike route. The Google likes to take you into some strange, strange places. Let's check out just a few of the "road" surfaces Google suggested today:









SURFACE #1: PAVED ROAD

My Review: Gee, Google this is swell. I give it a B-. My only complaint is that the shoulder isn't quite wide enough to cycle on, and it seems like a limited view for automobiles. Can you imagine if that were fixed! Like if there were a paved bike path that paralleled the road? Wow! That would be nearly perfect!
  












SURFACE #2: PAVED BIKE PATH

My Review: Hey, Goog! Not a bad choice at all! I give it a solid A. You obviously took my advice to heart. Sure it jumps from one side of the main road to the other and can be a bit hard to follow sometimes, but good job Googie! Way to take constructive criticism and turn it into a gem! 












SURFACE #3: COBBLESTONE


My Review: Hey, G-G-G-G-G-Goog-. Is it s-s-something I s-s-s-aid? This is r-r-r-really b-bumpy and m-m-my bags k-k-keep falling off. I'm s-s-sorry I c-c-complained a-b-b-bout the p-p-aved path ch-changing s-s-ides of the r-r-r-oad. Also... the c-c-obblestone is l-l-loosening my b-b-b-owels. 











SURFACE #4: Gravel / Dirt Bike Path

My Review: Thanks, Google. I appreciate you getting me off the cobblestone and waiting patiently for me outside the public restroom. I am going to go ahead and give this path an A+. Not because I mean it- it's actually quite slow, and slippery- but because I don't want to anger you into providing a shittier surface. Thank you for the Gravel / Dirt Bike Path suggestion Mr. Google. I appreciate you. 







SURFACE #5: EXTREMELY NARROW FOOT PATH WITH LOTS OF ROCKS.

My Review:  WTF GOOGLE? HOW DO YOU KNOW THIS EVEN EXISTS? HOW IS THIS IN YOUR DATA BASE? WHY ARE YOU TELLING ME TO TAKE THIS?
DO YOU SEE THE LUGGAGE I HAVE ON THE BACK OF MY BIKE? DO YOU? DO YOU, GOOG? WHEN HAS THIS PATH EVER BEEN A GOOD IDEA?!?! 

NOT FUNNY, GOOG. NOT. FUNNY. 







SURFACE #6: Grass path that goes directly through people's lawns. 

My Review: 


you're sleeping on the couch tonight google. 








SURFACE #7: BOARDWALK. 

My Review: I accept you're apology. No really, I do. Come back to bed, Google. It's late. We're both tired. No, Google, it's my fault. I shouldn't have spoken to you that way. Really, a boardwalk? You shouldn't have. It's too sweet. Too smooth. The sounds of seagulls, the children's laughter, the smell of salt? It is I who should apologize, Google. I'm ever so sorry. Don't leave me. Ever again. You're my rock. 










So, anyway. 



"...Norway's Oldest Town"
It was a fun day. Lots of hills, but none of the soreness I associated with last year's beginning days. Also, none of the dread when climbing. I only went 55 miles or so, but that was the goal- in order to meet another friend.

I had Reunion #2 today with Christina Grefsrud-Halvorsen- yet another Norwegian with whom I traveled back in 2000. It's shocking to think that it's 17 years since we've last seen one another- and she, her fiance John, her brother Berg, and her two lovely children welcomed me to Tønsberg, Norway. 


In case you can't figure out the text in the accompanying picture, Tønsberg is "...widely considered" to be the oldest town in Norway. 

For the record, I'm extremely leary of people using superlatives to describe pretty much anything, especially when it comes to towns. 

"Our town has the tallest building whose name starts with an X!"

"Our town has the oldest brewery in the world that used sacrificial pigs as an ingredient!"

"Our town has produced Thornton Wilder's 'Our Town' more than any other town in the history of towns!"

etc. 








Beautiful Downtown Tønsberg 

But for real, Tønsberg is pretty old. And still lookin' just fine. If I ever look this good when I'm her age, you ain't gonna hear me complainin'!


Everything in Norway is this Tidy.


















Outside Christina's House

Although Christina and her family told me where to find the key to the house, I was perfectly content napping in their driveway on a cool, beautiful evening and waiting for their arrival. I was out cold in minutes, and I didn't even hear their car pull up.

Their oldest son, Didrik, was wholly unaware that his mother was able to speak in tongues (she and John are both fluent in English but don't often speak it around him), and was fascinated. He wanted nothing else then to entertain the guy who talked funny in his house (i.e. me). 






We eventually settled on air hockey, and he beat me soundly 10-7 (I think I had 9 points, but arguing with a four-year-old who doesn't speak your language seems rather purposeless... but just so you know, I had 9 points.). 











A lot of laughter, a lot of reminiscing, and some pretty damn good wine, thanks to Berg (Christina's brother). It was hard to pull myself away at 12:15 AM so I could write this before heading off to bed. 


17 Years Later...
Berg is going to bike with me tomorrow for the first 20 km. He looks like he's in damn good shape. I think his goal was to ply me with wine and keep me up late solely to make me look bad tomorrow in comparison. 

But the joke's gonna be on him. 

I'll be up, stretched, showered, and ready to go first thing in the morning. 

'Cuz my alarm is set for 7 A.M. 


P.S.


What does this mean? 




"In Case of Tsunami, Run Down a Stone Hill into the Valley of Your Certain Death!"

Saturday, July 1, 2017

Anybody Have a Map?, a Game of Shuffleboard, and a Reunion

Day: Pre-Trip (Oslo, Norway)

Average Speed: N/A

Miles Cycled Today: About 15 km

Miles Cycled Total: About 15 km

Mood: Nervous Sorta Kinda but Not Really


Assembled Bike in Oslo Airport. Then Took Train.

Woefully unprepared.

If I could pick two words to describe myself right now, those are them. Woefully. Unprepared.

Did I keep the forty pounds off that I lost last year? Nope. They came back with a vengeance.

Did I train? Nah. Less than 200 miles under my belt since June. 

Did I save money for a complex European bike tour? Absolutely not. 

Did I bother to plan a route? Hell no. 

No destination. No ticket home. No job waiting for me when I get back. 

Woefully unprepared. 





Last year, I started with a detailed packing list, and started gathering supplies months ahead of time. This year I packed in under an hour. 


So you ain't gettin' no packing list. 

What you're getting instead is Green Saddle Bingo (my sister's idea). If you want to play along, print out one of the bingo cards here

In no particular order, here are the possible situations which can lead to B-I-N-G-O:

1) Too Drunk to Blog
2) Run-In with Police
3) Lose Something Crucial (Passport, Wallet, Bike, etc.)
Get Your Own Random Card By Clicking Here!
4) Damage Cell Phone
5) Get Lost
6) Run Out of Money
7) Chased by Animal
8) Fall Off Bike
9) Pop a Tire (tube)
10) Beg Stranger for Water
11) Language Barrier Issue
12) Accept a Car Ride
13) 5 Days without Shower
14) Sleep in/on Stranger's Property
15) Need Bike Repair at Shop
16) Have Something Stolen
17) Pedal 100 Miles in a Day
18) Start Crying for No Reason
19) Begin Cycling Past Noon
20) Begin Cycling Before 9 AM
21) Pedal 1 Day with a Stranger
22) Find Something Useful on Road
23) Give Motorist the Finger

24) Make it Home before September

Seriously. Play along. Call BINGO in the comments. Winner gets a postcard. Eventually. 

I'm not going to lie- I'm incredibly apprehensive about this trip. Or at least I was. I dunno. 

I was worried that maybe that whole humanity thing I experienced last year was a lark. A coincidence. Like I was just in the right place at the right time. It's just so easy to forget that human compassion always exists when day-to-day experiences don't always highlight it. 

But my plane wasn't off the ground before I was reminded of its wonderful presence. 



My Seat Now Comes with Child's Feet (free of charge)
An exasperated single woman traveling with three children was sandwiched in between me and a native Norwegian. The plane was on the runway for over an hour and the children were already getting antsy.

Norwegian Airlines is great for a cheap ticket- but the seat is all you buy. Blankets and headphones are going to cost you. 

And this mother was unprepared for that. 

Before we were in the air, the Norwegian (her name is Laura, I found out later) purchased blankets and headphones for the whole family. She comforted and played with the two children sitting next to her throughout the whole flight. I did the same with the child sitting next to me (Zora). 


I Don't Want These

Problem was, I didn't know Laura had already purchased the headphones, and I had lent Zora my own really good ones. So when the gifted headphones from Laura came, Zora didn't want them. She was perfectly happy with mine. And it's hard to explain to a four-year-old that now, I had no headphones, and she had two pair. So I did what any normal person would do... and I bought my own shitty pair of Norwegian Airline earbuds. 

After a lot of explaining when we landed, I eventually got mine back. 

But at least I didn't have a child vomiting on me on the plane's descent. 

Can't say the same for Laura. 

She handled it like a champ. 



Welcome to Norway. 

The Sky at 10 PM.




Norway. Where everyone is beautiful. Gay pride flows freely. The sun doesn't really set in July. And everyone seems to be in a generally good mood. 








It's like an expensive version of San Francisco without the hills.

And anyone who's been to San Francisco knows how expensive San Francisco is. 





I'm pretty sure it would be easier for bars and banks to merge into one, because you're going to need to apply for a mortgage if you're in the mood for a couple of beers. 



Nothing Says "Stay at Our Hotel!" Like this Mural.





Even the bizarre artwork behind the receptionist's desk at the hostel I'm holed up in seemed ironically welcoming. 
















Ramon, Vanessa, and Dean

Of course, I found my way to a pub upon arrival, but I was determined to leave early, catch up on sleep, and save a few thousand dollars. 

Instead I wound up meeting some Swiss students who were planning the opposite. Ramon, Vanessa, and Dean were a helluva lot of fun (okay... I admit it... Swiss people can be fun). 







Dean Finds Love in Oslo

After a few games of shuffleboard (Ramon and I lost badly), some more beers, and a couple trips to the ATM, I knew the night was over when I found Dean in the arms of a hickey-laden woman on the street. 


The sky doesn't really get dark in Oslo, so you can gauge time this way: When a young man is comfortably in the arms of an older stranger whose love marks tattoo her skin, it's about 2:45 AM. 


My Number is in Body of this Text if You Need it...



Got a new SIM card (Get WhatsApp to stay in touch!). 

A tuned-up bike. 

A power converter. 

Screw the maps. 

Show me the way Google!












Lots of Bodies, Piled High





And I did get the chance to cycle around beautiful Oslo. Vigeland park- the world's largest "sculpture park" with artwork by Gustav Vigeland was particularly impressive. Lots of naked sculptures in every position you can imagine.  Go figure.
View from Vigeland Park




Vigeland Sculptures







Scariest Scuplture Ever.




























Take a two-minute bike tour of Oslo with me here (recorded earlier today):




My highlight in Oslo, however, was a reunion with one of the many people I travelled with back in 1999 and 2000. Synnove Follestad (I don't know how to make the O with the slash through it... but her first name has that) is one of the most memorable people I've ever met. And it was an absolute joy to catch up with her. 


Synnove and Me and Fine Norwegian Dining


She is still as funny, honest, blunt, and charming as ever, and she treated me to my first ever taste of whale meat. 

It's delicious by the way.

Venison meets swordfish. 

I have no clue what kind of whale it is, but Synnove assured me it's not near extinction. So screw it... it's guilt-free delicacy. 



A Whale of a Meal
I was scared before I left home. Then nervous when I got here. Now I'm anxious to begin.

In my final post last year, I was resolute to look past birthmarks and focus on everything that is wonderful instead. I lost that focus somewhere in March 2017, and didn't work hard enough to see past a big, ugly birthmark in my field of vision. I could've, but I didn't. 


It was a rough end to my last school year. 
But there've been no birthmarks on the last two days here in Oslo, and the one that I couldn't look past at home is not going to cloud my vision anytime soon.

Ramon taught me a saying that they have in Switzerland- it's for when someone is stuck with an ugly situation and pretend that everything is just fine: "And now you have to sell it."

Two days ago, I was ready to use that phrase. 

Not now. 

There's no ugly situation. 

There's nothing I need to sell. 

Let's have a good time this summer. 


P.S.


That moment when Google Translate is not at all necessary. 




Didn't see the sign for the female rest room, but I'm curious...