YOLO to Hojo, a Fortunate Flat, and All the Pretty Horses

Day: 6 (Reeds Gap, VA to Daleville, VA)
Average Speed: 10.8 MPH
Miles Cycled Today: 93.3 (3 of which were pointless)
Miles Cycled Total: 331
Mood: Proud

Graffiti is Encouraged at Gertie's... and I had a Sharpie!

Woke Up to Clear Blue Skies

I woke up to this: It's hard to tell, but that's a perfect blue sky coming through the clear mesh of my tent. No need for a rainfly last night. The stars were just as unbelievable to fall asleep to as this sky was to wake up to. I found the big dipper last night. Several times. It's the only constellation I know.

Ended at a Flea Bag Motel

And then I rode 93.3 miles all the way to this: A Hojos where I am the only non-permanent resident. My neighbors in room 305 welcomed me with a 1/2 can of Busch Beer ("Hey brotha'... ya' wan' the resta this? Ya' look like y'all could use it!"). For the first time ever, I declined a beer. 

I think I'll also pass on the continental breakfast. And the pool. This place doesn't even pretend to be sanitary. 

Any English teachers looking for examples of juxtaposition for a lesson plan, please feel free to use the above. 

LONG ride today, with lots of mountains and great scenery. I left my "stealth" campsite at about 8:30 this morning and got to the Ritz Carlton here in Daleville at 9:40 PM (night ridin' ain't nearly as bad as I thought it would be!). Check out the terrain map... it's pretty cool:

Began Today's Ride at "Start"and Headed... ummm... Left

3 Mile Drop to Vesuvius

Do you see that bad-ass descent? Where I wrote "Wheeee!"? That is every bit as steep as it looks. Unreal. I would love to say that I hit 80 MPH on that, but I didn't even break 20. While it was thrilling, it's not the place to go for speed. It's a 3-mile intensely switchbacked drop into a one-horse town called Vesuvius. 

Thank God for disc brakes.

Left Dave and Right Dave

But... imagine heading the OTHER way and having to come UP! That's what these two had just done. Dave and Dave. And Left Dave is 75 years old. These two have a tradition that every year they cycle up that craziness on July 4th weekend. Amazing.

Not only did Left Dave just finish climbing the continuously steepest hill I've ever seen at 75 years old, but he's wearing a Jolt Cola jersey. 

Sorry, Right Dave... you're cool... but Left Dave is where it's at. 

There were a lot of cyclists on the Blue Ridge today, and I was able to group them into two different categories: Those who don't want to be Lance Armstrong, and those who do. Luckily, most fall into the former category... like the Daves and the many others I chatted up today. The other type (and I know you've seen them on the road)... jeez. They won't acknowledge your existence while on-bike since waving or saying hello might screw up their aerodynamics- and they won't acknowledge your existence off-bike either because they're just plain assholes. 

Gertie's in Vesuviu

The real highlight of the day was this little gem at the foot of the mountain in Vesuvius. They have an assortment of bizarre, worthless crap for sale and great food* (*bear in mind that all food tastes great to me now. I doubt you'll be reading about Gertie's in Zagat's anytime soon). 

The place is peppered with confederate flags and covered in graffiti (I added my own... see photo at top of post)

And I shit you not... The Star Spangled Banner was playing when I entered. I waited until it was over before I sat down to order a burger. 

Gertie's Welcome Sign

The staff was super friendly to me, even after I read the sign hanging below the cash register. I thought about trying to don a Southern accent so I didn't get kicked out, but whenever I do any accent, it winds up sounding Russian. I vill have zee hahm-burger vit chez, zank you. That would be worse.

The ride out of Vesuvius and into the next (town?) was flat and peaceful. I threw the earbuds back in and fast-forwarded every Billy Joel song that shuffled through on the iPod. I'm coming out: I'm officially an ex Billy Joel fan. Done. Keith Jarrett was the soundtrack for today. 

Later, outside of Lexington, things got exciting again when I met a small hill. Piece of cake! I just did the Blue Ridge! This hill is a joke! But it was kicking my ass. I was in my lowest gear, sweating buckets, and struggling to move.

And I must've pushed myself at least 1/4 mile up that damn thing before realizing my back tire was flat. 

Top Question so Far: Did you pack spare tubes? YES! And tire levers! And Pete at Sussex Bike Shop gave me a private tutorial on roadside maintenance. I had this baby up and running again in 15 minutes (with help from Asa, a passing cyclist).

We would've had it on quicker if so many people didn't stop to offer assistance. But boy am I glad one guy did. He asked where I was heading... I told him Lexington, and I got the Hairy Eyeball. "Lexington's the other way," he said cautiously. My pretentious literary side kicked in, and I wanted to say My dear sir, you are obviously unfamiliar with the poet Robert Frost- you see, I am taking the road less traveled. Because these types of roads are grassy and want wear, I am avoiding the major roads. 

Instead I pointed on my map, where it clearly showed I was on the right track. His Eyeball grew Hairier. Then he moved my finger an inch to the left. "You're here, buddy. Not there." 

Oh. 

Had I not gotten this flat tire, and had this man not stopped, I would've pedaled at least 10 miles- probably more- in the complete opposite direction. Instead, it was a 3 mile detour.

Even humble pie tastes delicious. 

Lexington is yet another beautiful town in Virginia, and its corner ice cream shop was begging me to stop, but I was losing time and had to keep going. 

But how can you keep going when you round a corner on a traffic-less serene road and see this: 

Horses Five Miles Outside of Lexington, Virginia

You can't. Three horses drinking in a stream means stop. For a long time. And enjoy beauty.

Before I left, more than a few people said "It's a shame you probably won't be able to do any sight seeing since you'll have to be on the bike the whole time!" This always drew a blank stare from me. I don't understand this sentiment. At all. And when I explain that I think the opposite is entirely true- that I'll be doing nothing but sight seeing- they usually clarify by saying I wouldn't be able to see museums and whatnot. 

Keep your museums and the interstate highways with the endless parade of Hardee's. 

I'll take the horses. 

This was a fine moment. And it was worth riding in the dark tonight in order to sit there for half an hour and watch while neither a single car nor person passed. 

Even though it all led to a friggin' Howard Johnson's in the end.

P.S.

Gertie's sells Apple Platers too!

But I wouldn't buy it because it doesn't come with enough tea.

You'll get that joke in about an hour or so.