Average Speed: 15.4 km/hr (9 mph)
Distance Cycled Today: 104 km (65 Miles)
Distance Cycled Total: 2500 km (1553 Miles)
Mood: Alive... literally... I'm alive. Not in the perky sense. Just alive.
Well that's 10 hours of my life that I would never want to relive.
Holy Bajeezus!
Typically, when we have to be in bad traffic, it's short lived. Scary, yes. But over quickly.
Not today. From start to finish it was a white-knuckler.
Actually, my knuckles are quite tan compared to the rest of my hand because that's where the glove cuts off, but I'm speaking metaphorically.
I was really excited for the ride today too- lots of climbing, great weather, fresh new tunes loaded up in the earbuds, and a trip through Plitvice Lakes National Park... but instead- with each passing semi-truck- I shouted a lot of four-letter words. They were so close to us that I instinctively tucked my elbows in for fear that they would be side-scraped.
And the motorists tend to throw caution to the wind. Two near-misses stick out in particular:
In one, several cars were trying to pass a semi-truck on the left in a no-passing zone (bear in mind this is a run-of-the-mill two lane road with no shoulder). The semi then moved to its left to avoid Jamie. Other cars seized this opportunity to pass the truck on the right. Three lanes of traffic (+ an extremely frightened Jamie) were suddenly moving in one direction on a road barely big enough to accommodate two car widths at any given time. The fact that there wasn't a motorist coming the other direction is beyond lucky. It would've been a disaster. But It was quite the sight from my point-of-view.
Another time, a motorist in oncoming traffic decided to pass a few cars and drove haphazardly into our lane at 70 mph- it took some cat-like reflexes to get out of that guy's way. Jamie reached his hand out as if to say What are you doing?!? but quickly pulled it back in because he would've hit the driver's windshield.
I, on the other hand, did what New Yorkers are so well-known for doing and gave him a good ol' one finger salute (Side note: I almost always ignore rude motorists. They have a car. I have a bike. They win. Not worth it to instigate road rage. But this was a special occasion).
It wasn't physically exhausting at all today.
It was mentally exhausting.
We both took frequent breaks simply to give our psyches a rest.
The obvious solution, of course, is to take another route. There's only one problem with that: There isn't one. We're deep in the mountains of Croatia, and hilly Route 1 is the main vein for both cargo trucks and tourists. And those tourists get cranky being stuck behind cargo trucks on steep climbs.
We took a quick GoPro video, but it doesn't do justice at all. This was just one tiny section where semi trucks weren't allowed and the car traffic for the day was at its lightest:
Enjoy the soundtrack.
BUT... we did ride right by some amazing sights! Check out these photos:
I'm not lying when I said we rode by that. I mean, we didn't see it... those pictures are from a Google search. But we definitely rode right by it. Apparently, a lot of people want to see that, and they park their cars for miles on both sides of the road and take a long walk to gain entrance to the park. And although being on a bicycle does offer fantastic parking privileges, the thought of being with those crowds left me with little desire to find my way in.
The World's Worst Tourists. That's us. We skipped one of the most amazing things Croatia has to offer.
But I'm fine with that. When you're on a long-distance bike tour, you simply can't do the things you would do on normal tour. It's a sacrifice. If you're stopped, you're not going. And if you're not going, then you're not going to make it to your destination. And every time you stop, it takes a while before you're "in the zone" again and ready to cycle. Touring cyclists see things from (literally) a completely different perspective. I like it just fine my way.
I took a five minute peaceful rest at a hidden scenic overlook where there were no tourists. It was breathtaking. Beautiful waterfalls in the distance pouring into aqua blue water with a mountain backdrop. I loved that moment. I'm sure I loved that moment more than I would've liked elbowing my way through crowds to sneak a peak at the main attraction while worrying about time constraints. Would've never found that nook were I not on a bike.
It was a full day of climbing and pants-shitting. Hence the low mileage. We were given a wonderful descent into a perfectly situated posh campground that didn't charge us a dime for setting up our tents. Or maybe they forgot to take our money. Probably the latter, but I'm going to tell myself it's free for cyclists just so that I don't feel immoral.
There was a restaurant with a pig turning on a spit, so we indulged.
And we set up camp next to another bike-packer. A Beligian named Henrik. One of the European "Usual Questions" after people realize that Jamie and I are from two different countries is "Did you meet on this trip?" Then we humbly explain that we crossed America last year and finished the trip together after meeting in Kansas.
Most people are blown away at the thought of crossing the U.S., but not Henrik.
Henrik finished the exact same tour that Jamie and I did. Just last month. Only a few hundred people take that trip every year.
What are the chances?
And just like us, Henrik didn't want his USA trip to be over either... so he's continuing it in Europe.
Henrik is planning on waking up at 4 AM to beat the traffic. Henrik has laminated maps of
the area. Henrik has a nice tent. Henrik is traveling same road we are. Henrik is the real deal.
And guess what...
Henrik didn't stop at Plitvice Lakes National Park either.
"No time for that. No one understands that you can't do that sort of thing on a trip like this."
If anything saved this day from being entirely miserable, it was this affirmation from Henrik.
And that last descent.
And this campsite.
And the pig roast.
And the kitten who just hopped up onto my lap while I typed that last sentence.
It's like the day itself tried to apologize for its behavior right at the very end.
I accept the apology, Today.
And I'll see your cousin Tomorrow in a few.
 |
| So many people with bicycles on the back of their vehicles almost ran us over today. |
Well that's 10 hours of my life that I would never want to relive.
Holy Bajeezus!
 |
| Me on the most peaceful 1 mile stretch of the route today |
Typically, when we have to be in bad traffic, it's short lived. Scary, yes. But over quickly.
Not today. From start to finish it was a white-knuckler.
Actually, my knuckles are quite tan compared to the rest of my hand because that's where the glove cuts off, but I'm speaking metaphorically.
 |
| My view of Croatia today |
And the motorists tend to throw caution to the wind. Two near-misses stick out in particular:
In one, several cars were trying to pass a semi-truck on the left in a no-passing zone (bear in mind this is a run-of-the-mill two lane road with no shoulder). The semi then moved to its left to avoid Jamie. Other cars seized this opportunity to pass the truck on the right. Three lanes of traffic (+ an extremely frightened Jamie) were suddenly moving in one direction on a road barely big enough to accommodate two car widths at any given time. The fact that there wasn't a motorist coming the other direction is beyond lucky. It would've been a disaster. But It was quite the sight from my point-of-view.
Another time, a motorist in oncoming traffic decided to pass a few cars and drove haphazardly into our lane at 70 mph- it took some cat-like reflexes to get out of that guy's way. Jamie reached his hand out as if to say What are you doing?!? but quickly pulled it back in because he would've hit the driver's windshield. I, on the other hand, did what New Yorkers are so well-known for doing and gave him a good ol' one finger salute (Side note: I almost always ignore rude motorists. They have a car. I have a bike. They win. Not worth it to instigate road rage. But this was a special occasion).
It wasn't physically exhausting at all today.
It was mentally exhausting.
We both took frequent breaks simply to give our psyches a rest.
The obvious solution, of course, is to take another route. There's only one problem with that: There isn't one. We're deep in the mountains of Croatia, and hilly Route 1 is the main vein for both cargo trucks and tourists. And those tourists get cranky being stuck behind cargo trucks on steep climbs.
We took a quick GoPro video, but it doesn't do justice at all. This was just one tiny section where semi trucks weren't allowed and the car traffic for the day was at its lightest:
Enjoy the soundtrack.
BUT... we did ride right by some amazing sights! Check out these photos:
 |
| Awful tourists take selfies. And I'm an awful tourist. Btw.. if I turn the camera 180 degrees, it's a traffic nightmare. |
The World's Worst Tourists. That's us. We skipped one of the most amazing things Croatia has to offer.
But I'm fine with that. When you're on a long-distance bike tour, you simply can't do the things you would do on normal tour. It's a sacrifice. If you're stopped, you're not going. And if you're not going, then you're not going to make it to your destination. And every time you stop, it takes a while before you're "in the zone" again and ready to cycle. Touring cyclists see things from (literally) a completely different perspective. I like it just fine my way.
 |
| Damn shadows block the waterfalls. And my bike.. I guess that's blocking the waterfalls too. There are waterfalls. They're beautiful. Trust me. |
I took a five minute peaceful rest at a hidden scenic overlook where there were no tourists. It was breathtaking. Beautiful waterfalls in the distance pouring into aqua blue water with a mountain backdrop. I loved that moment. I'm sure I loved that moment more than I would've liked elbowing my way through crowds to sneak a peak at the main attraction while worrying about time constraints. Would've never found that nook were I not on a bike.
 |
| This little piggy went to market for sure. |
It was a full day of climbing and pants-shitting. Hence the low mileage. We were given a wonderful descent into a perfectly situated posh campground that didn't charge us a dime for setting up our tents. Or maybe they forgot to take our money. Probably the latter, but I'm going to tell myself it's free for cyclists just so that I don't feel immoral.
 |
| Next stop... my belly. |
There was a restaurant with a pig turning on a spit, so we indulged.
And we set up camp next to another bike-packer. A Beligian named Henrik. One of the European "Usual Questions" after people realize that Jamie and I are from two different countries is "Did you meet on this trip?" Then we humbly explain that we crossed America last year and finished the trip together after meeting in Kansas.
Most people are blown away at the thought of crossing the U.S., but not Henrik.
 |
| Three TransAmerica cyclists meeting in Croatia |
Henrik finished the exact same tour that Jamie and I did. Just last month. Only a few hundred people take that trip every year.
What are the chances?
And just like us, Henrik didn't want his USA trip to be over either... so he's continuing it in Europe.
Henrik is planning on waking up at 4 AM to beat the traffic. Henrik has laminated maps of
 |
| CHEERS FOR THE BEER... fellow TransAmerica cyclist DAVID ENGEL! |
And guess what...
Henrik didn't stop at Plitvice Lakes National Park either.
"No time for that. No one understands that you can't do that sort of thing on a trip like this."
If anything saved this day from being entirely miserable, it was this affirmation from Henrik.
And that last descent.
And this campsite.
And the pig roast.
And the kitten who just hopped up onto my lap while I typed that last sentence.
It's like the day itself tried to apologize for its behavior right at the very end.
I accept the apology, Today.
And I'll see your cousin Tomorrow in a few.
P.S.
No real gaffs from today...
so here's en entertaining text exchange from last night:
So many of these... but this is the cleanest I could find.
Sorry to hear that your experience cycling through Croatia was so awful, rather than full of awe. It's a beautiful country, but not the most cycle friendly. The drivers are crazy. It's high tourist season too, July and August. I went to the lakes in Late September a completely different scene. I hope the coast and a dip in the Adriatic sea will relax those white knuckles.
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