Average Speed: 18.6 km/hr (11.5 mph)
Distance Cycled Today: 130 km (80 Miles)
Distance Cycled Total: 3266 km (2029 Miles)
Mood: Indifferent
Another distinctly different ride for the third day in a row. More of a behind-the-scenes peek of Montenegro before leaving, and then a ride through Albania's nether-region.
It was exciting to start with- I was riding a small country road that cleverly snuck its way around a multitude of small mountains. It was beautiful, and the road was fun- it was always a surprise as to what was around the next corner.
I even got to save a turtle who was moments away from being roadkill. First one of the year. And as all bike-packers know, the main mission of a trip is to save turtles. Thankfully, this one didn't pee on me.
I didn't realize it at the time, but I should've appreciated those last twenty miles in Montenegro more than I did, because as soon as I crossed the border into Albania it got a bit... ugly.
I hate to give a negative review of a place based on a single day's visit, but Albania does not seem to care much about first impressions. Immediately after the border crossing, litter lined the road and the road surface deteriorated. And once on the main path to Tirana, I couldn't fathom it being much uglier. The route I took had the flatness of Kansas with the scenic vista of Paramus, New Jersey.
It was an easy 80 miles today- no doubt. But rather joyless. Possibly the best part of the Albanian portion of the ride was when I wound up on a proper highway (it said bikes were permitted, so I went for it...). I had a wide traffic-free shoulder to ride in. I could've done figure eights if I wanted. I don't know why I would ever want to do figure eights on a highway in Albania... but I could have.
I also could've stopped under a bridge in the highway and bought "fresh fish" from a guy with a crate of anything-but-fresh fish. Again, I don't know why I'd want to buy fish under a bridge on a busy highway, but I could've.
I was hoping that the ugliness would eventually give way upon arriving in Tirana, Albania's capital. But wrong again. This is a city worth skipping from what I've seen- no need to put it on your top ten list of places to visit on your next Euro-vacation. It's a sprawling city with confusing traffic patterns, and although I'm sure there is something to see here, I'm going to skip that too and head out of town first thing.
I found a couple of other bike-packers via Instagram who are on a similar route and got in touch with them. They chose Durres- a port city- as their day's destination.
They had a great ride today on back roads.
They stopped and played with piglets and sent me the pics to prove it.
They weren't using Google maps.
Sounds like they know what they're doing.
It's a short ride to Durres.
Think I'll go introduce myself.
Another distinctly different ride for the third day in a row. More of a behind-the-scenes peek of Montenegro before leaving, and then a ride through Albania's nether-region.
It was exciting to start with- I was riding a small country road that cleverly snuck its way around a multitude of small mountains. It was beautiful, and the road was fun- it was always a surprise as to what was around the next corner.
I even got to save a turtle who was moments away from being roadkill. First one of the year. And as all bike-packers know, the main mission of a trip is to save turtles. Thankfully, this one didn't pee on me.
I didn't realize it at the time, but I should've appreciated those last twenty miles in Montenegro more than I did, because as soon as I crossed the border into Albania it got a bit... ugly.
I hate to give a negative review of a place based on a single day's visit, but Albania does not seem to care much about first impressions. Immediately after the border crossing, litter lined the road and the road surface deteriorated. And once on the main path to Tirana, I couldn't fathom it being much uglier. The route I took had the flatness of Kansas with the scenic vista of Paramus, New Jersey.
One of the better looking moments... |
It was an easy 80 miles today- no doubt. But rather joyless. Possibly the best part of the Albanian portion of the ride was when I wound up on a proper highway (it said bikes were permitted, so I went for it...). I had a wide traffic-free shoulder to ride in. I could've done figure eights if I wanted. I don't know why I would ever want to do figure eights on a highway in Albania... but I could have.
Highway riding... eeew. |
I also could've stopped under a bridge in the highway and bought "fresh fish" from a guy with a crate of anything-but-fresh fish. Again, I don't know why I'd want to buy fish under a bridge on a busy highway, but I could've.
Eerie greeting from Tirana |
I was hoping that the ugliness would eventually give way upon arriving in Tirana, Albania's capital. But wrong again. This is a city worth skipping from what I've seen- no need to put it on your top ten list of places to visit on your next Euro-vacation. It's a sprawling city with confusing traffic patterns, and although I'm sure there is something to see here, I'm going to skip that too and head out of town first thing.
CHEERS FOR THE BEER, fellow blogger AMY REYNALDO |
They had a great ride today on back roads.
They stopped and played with piglets and sent me the pics to prove it.
They weren't using Google maps.
Sounds like they know what they're doing.
It's a short ride to Durres.
Think I'll go introduce myself.
P.S.
Should've read the whole sign before I went in...
I remember looking across the border into Albania, from Lake Prespa, Macedonia. Seemed untamed, wild, exotic. The country was closed to westerners at the time (1987). Seems like I didn't miss much. THANKS for the reconnaissance!
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