This is 40, Care Package #3, and a U-Haul

Day: 40 (Dolores, CO to Monticello, UT)

Average Speed: 11.1 MPH

Miles Cycled Today: 60.3

Miles Cycled Total: 2,684

Mood: Downtrodden 

The Decor of Lizardhead Cyclery in Dolores, Colorado

Gray. Bitter. Ugly. 

This is 40.

Of course, I’m talking about the weather on my 40th day. Not me. I’m 36. And I’m not quite willing to concede that I’m ugly just yet. Gray and bitter… fine. 

A Goodbye Gift from Colorado

Colorado didn’t want me to make it to Utah today, and it threw some foul weather my way to try and stop me. Utah, on the other hand, seemed to know I was going to take a picture of its welcome sign, and it put on a happy face for a few short moments. Don’t be fooled by that blue sky in the background. That’s Utah screwing with me. The black clouds rolled right back in minutes later. 

This Sign Posed for this Picture. That Blue Sky Stuck Around for About Five Minutes 

Relaxing Amongst Hay

It’s tremendously difficult to stay positive when the weather keeps finding ways to bog me down. I’ve been through hail, intense heat/humidity, frigid temperatures (I’m wearing four layers right now), crazy wind, and constant lightning storms with torrential rains. And there’s been no such thing as “light rain.” It’s always a downpour. Today, I had to find shelter four times (my favorite being in a barn with delightful hay bales to climb… like a five year old would) and wait out the weather. 

"Worst Weather This Whole Year!" said every local in every state

For the most part, I think that I’ve found joy in plenty of these conditions- whether it’s sharing beers with strangers in their garage, laughing at a tent blowing away, or bundling up in a camouflage jacket- but it’s hard to do that over and over. 

And today was not joyless- far from it- it just feels like there are so many unnecessary hurdles that, according to locals, typically aren’t there. If I hear one more time that "this is the worst storm we’ve had all year!” I might just start crying. I’ve heard something to that effect in every state. Except Kansas. They’re accustomed to their ridiculous storms.  

I wanted to get 20 more miles today so I could be fresh for the 75 mile barren stretch right after that, but that simply couldn’t happen. It’s too lightning-y and thunder-y and rainy to go anywhere, and I grounded myself in Monticello, Utah for the night. So I’m looking at a really, really tough day tomorrow (I have to make at least 95 miles). Here’s what I travelled today:

Today's Route

Speaking of tough, this new route I’m on is called the Western Express. Most cross-country cyclists avoid this route- not because it’s more noble to cycle the complete Route 76 up to Oregon, but because it’s insane. Shorter, yes. But less difficult? Hell no. Check out this one warning for just this portion of the ride:

Egad. 

I mentioned that today was far from joyless, and I want to recount and relive those awesome moments right now so I can go to bed smiling. 

1) Care Package #3: On behalf of Circleville Middle School, my good friend Holly sent out a wonderful package to the post office in Dolores. How she knew I ran out of Butt Butter is beyond me, and I am currently wearing the fresh pair of cycling socks (back to three pair! Whoo hoo!). Goodies, drink mix, a beautiful card, and some lube (for the chain, you pervert)- Great stuff. And I didn’t care that I got the Hairy Eyeball from the postmaster when I decided to unpack and organize all of my bags right then and there. That made it

The Best Product on Earth

even better. Nothin’ I love more than a good ol’ Hairy Eyeball. 

Surprise in Dolores, CO!

Awesome.

Nicholas at Lizardhead Cyclery

Nicholas Makes a Road Repair

2) Lizardhead Cyclery: I stopped in to the last cycle shop of the foreseeable future for the sole purpose of purchasing a tub of Butt Butter. But that’s kind of like going to the doctor’s office just to get a sugar free lollipop… he’s not letting you get out of there without a prostate exam. Nicholas, the owner, nonchalantly asked to see my bike, and the next thing I knew, it was on his examination table. By the time he was through with it, he had adjusted every single spoke and tightened every single bolt. He put a solid hour and a half worth of time into it, and charged me twenty dollars only. Five miles after I left the shop, I was having a shifting issue and I called him. He drove his car out to where I was to fix that as well. No charge. (He also invited me to a lunch cookout, but alas time was running short). If you ever find yourself in Dolores, Colorado- go to Lizardhead Cyclery… even if it’s just to pet the kitties. 

To Be Considered a Good Bike Shop, There Must Be a Cat

Hmmm... Not Sure the Helmets are Necessary...

3) David and Sabrina. You might recall that I met these two at the Colorado border, and I’ve been seeing them sporadically since. They typically travel shorter distances than I do in a day, but they’re incredibly efficient and have genuinely upbeat personalities. The passed me in a U-Haul (!) today (David said something along the lines of “I’m 51… and I’m too old to be cycling through this weather!”), and pulled over when they saw me. David held out an apple when I passed, and I was thrilled to discover it was them. They offered a place to stay for the night (I foolishly declined, thinking I’d be able to make it further than I did) and hopped out to hug me goodbye. I know it’s not goodbye though… I must stay ahead of them because Sabrina is our road mechanic. 

I believe this is the third time that I’m using a word with a negative connotation to describe my mood for the day. And I’m completely aware that it’s impossible for every day to be happy-go-lucky on a trip like this. But man oh man, those bad mood days are hard.

Oh well. Whatcha gonna do? 

My journey heard that it’s middle aged today, and it’s having a bit of a crisis. 

This is 40.

But- as Hanna pointed out to me when I was clearly upset on the phone with her earlier- if you picture Valentine being chased by the dogs of Kentucky, it makes everything so much better. 

We’ll get over the hill (in more ways than one) tomorrow. 

Because we’re doing this. And we're in it together... right to the gray, bitter, ugly end if need be.

P.S.

Colorado's Version of the "Welcome to Utah" Sign

P.P.S. 

Supposedly, Wifi and Hotspot service are hard things to come by in Utah. If that's the case, I'll see you soon.