A Tour Guide, a Monsoon, and a Surprise Visitor

Day: 38 (Montrose, CO to Placerville, CO- side trip to Telluride)

Average Speed: 9.4 MPH

Miles Cycled Today: 51.7

Miles Cycled Total: 2,539

Mood: Chillin'

On Wall in Montrose Host Family (Brian)

Somebody needs to tell Colorado it’s August.

As I sailed down a twelve mile descent today, I couldn’t wait to get to the bottom because I knew I would have to start pedaling again… which means the heat would turn back on. 

Jamie and I split a room last night in Montrose, and this morning, when I asked him what the weather would be like for today, he said "I don’t think I’ll tell you, because you’re just going to go back to bed.”

After a bit of needling, he told me that is was going to be “monsoonal.” That’s a word I don’t think I’ve ever used. Monsoonal. 

Ridgway State Park

This was hard to believe as we set off from Montrose- blue skies and puffy clouds above. If that guy Valentine from yesterday were still with us, it probably would’ve stayed that way. I doubt if he’s ever seen a rain cloud. A smiling sun and cartoon birds probably follow that guy wherever he goes.

John Birge: Impromptu Tour Guide

But Valentine was replaced by our impromptu tour guide for the day, a soft-spoken local named John Birge. 

We met John at a coffee shop, and he was out enjoying the day on his bicycle. He offered to ride with us and show us a few things we might miss on our way to Ridgway if we blindly stayed on our route.

 By the way, someone misspelled “Ridgway” when they registered that town’s name. There’s definitely supposed to be an e between the g and the w, and it’s bothering me. I see this a lot in middle school with students’ names- some parents clearly just don’t know how to spell, but whatever typo they made on the birth certificate is set in stone for life. Poor Ridg(e)way- its parents failed the Hooked on Phonics course. 

Anyway, John cycled next to us, offering us thoughtful conversation and taking us on a bike path that meandered into Downtown Ridgway [sic]. We stopped at Dennis Weaver Memorial Park, where there’s a giant statue of an eagle that begs to be climbed on despite the signs forbidding such childish behavior. And we landed at the True Grit Cafe, where part of the original True Grit starring John Wayne was filmed. They’re certainly not shy about letting you know it either. John Wayne’s mug is wallpapered throughout the place.

Just as we paid our bill, the monsoon began. John said his farewell and headed back toward Montrose while Jamie and I scrambled to put on rain gear and wait out the worst of it. We had our goal set on Telluride for the night, and I had to get there- a surprise visitor was waiting for me and had just texted that they had secured accommodations for the night. 

A slow but steady ten mile climb up to the Dallas Divide followed, and the sporadic rain was actually quite welcome, but coming down the other side chilled me to the bone. I stopped at a deli in Placerville to warm up- and Jamie’s host for the evening happened to spot us as he was driving by in his minivan. He offered a ride for the last 16 miles to Telluride. Jamie declined. I accepted- I had a friend waiting for me and the weather put me an hour behind schedule. I just wanted to get there. I’m not willing to call it a SAG though- I’m going to start at Placerville tomorrow. I think. 

Today's Route

Kathy Meets Me in Telluride

In the posh town of Telluride- a quintessential ski town if ever there was one- I stood in the middle of Main St., looking quite out of place amongst the hipsters. But my company eventually found me and snuck up on me from behind with a bear-hug greeting. Kathy Garry and her husband Eamon just happened to be hours away from me celebrating Kathy’s 50th birthday (they are on a National Parks tour). Kathy and I work together at Circleville Middle School, and I am not willing to call our staff there anything less than family. 

They booked an incredible hotel (seriously… five star) and we talked excitedly into the night, sharing misadventures and plans for the remaining weeks of summer. 

There’s something about seeing a familiar face that really lifts spirits and provides motivation. It takes a cold, driving, miserable rain, and makes it pleasant. 

Kathy, Eamon, and Me

The exciting thing about life on a bicycle is that something unexpected happens on a daily basis. It’s like there’s new presents under a fresh tree every day. 

Christmas in July indeed. 

I just wish the temperature would stick to August. 

I hope you have a monsoonal day. 

P.S.

I'd love to, but it doesn't sound like a practical use of time....

En Garde!